The creation of a moist environment for development over the maze, and the period in which we do are part of an item considered basic in the care of our Bettas and especially in the care of the fry, it is quite common to find partners in the aquarium forums to the tessitura of how to deal with the development of the labyrinth and how to prepare the tank for it.
To try to keep this issue always available (as far as possible), avoiding the infinite repetition of the steps (from contributors, moderators and active users, the main source of user support in trouble), then expose the details of all this stage, fundamental to the health of our Bettas (ignore the development of the labyrinth is to condemn your Bettas in a short life and agonizing death unworthy.)
1. Material for the development of the maze facing
The material listed may be varied depending on preferences that do not undermine the effectiveness of the item in question and their performance in the method, ie, we can switch a 75w heater for 1 50w if the volume of water in the tank allows us to do so without losing the desire to maintain temperature, or cover material can be used in Depending on the availability or cost of it, ...
Aquarium: Volume recommended, 20 to 60 liters (depending on the number of fingerlings) Recommended material: double glazing (the best material to look inside, harbor plus temperature and humidity outside) recommended Location: Over 1 meter high, always under our eyes.
Heater: Recommended Power: 75Watios (applied to the recommended aquarium volume), type preferred anti-shock heating, costs double, they look like a cable box, better technical and technological level, which accidents do not open before a blow inside the aquarium or fall (which means a longer life for the device and greater profitability) recommended location: vertical or diagonal.
Filtering filtering will not use, save or sponge prefilters based on the same principle, avoiding water pumps start sucks.
Thermometer: Use thermometers as accurate as possible, preferably by digital probe provided, followed by internal glass thermometers.
Top: Size: You must cover the entire surface of the aquarium and on at least a few millimeters on each side; Material: Preference for materials insulation (cork, polyurethane, ...), followed by double glazing.
Plants: Preferably plants that meet 3 criteria weight: endure several weeks in low light (in the case of not using transparent material for the lid, the light will enter through the sides) and average temperatures of 30 º C (for about weeks), are loose floating or submerged in the aquarium, keep emerging (land can be used as Potos) and, as a third condition, be sewage or water oxygen.
Partners: at this stage can and should be made compatible partners with the likes of our Bettas (at this stage the danger of conflicts generated is 0), taking into account water quality reasons, and avoid introducing any fish (Bettas fry even with difference in size) and can use shells to clean up solid waste (use Planorbis, not apples, they are still vulnerable to being trapped by an apple while resting) and invertebrates with filtering capabilities (particularly Daphnia a hundred jobs, it works pretty well the filter system "natural" created by the whole-plant-Daphnia Planorbis).
Water: Quality recommended and change of water: Water must be new, using the size at which juveniles should be at the stage we are concerned, it must be a transfer aquarium where they were born to one where developing labyrinth (or alternatively, a temporary transfer to a total water change), thus in a position to offer water to meet the 3-week duration of this stage; Recommended values: Water preferably soft (3 to 6, GH), being able to harden (to 16 GH), acidity of water, preferably neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6.5-7.5 °), NO2 and NO3 to 0 (note that in these tanks no filtration (sponge filter is excluded from this classification, it is only a pre-filter that traps solid waste) or colony of bacteria (either because we have not even substrate), at least should not if any to take the starting conditions for indirect reasons); temperature preferably between 28 and 30 º C.
Food: Food choice is essential for the proper balance during this time. Type of food: Food vivo; Tomas daily, from 3 to 6 times daily; Number of shots: should never have to be a while hunting and have food to spare.
say that there are doubts on whether the feeding process may be hard to remove the lid to feed them. To feed them if they cause a sudden change of environment, quietly climbed the side of the lid, without lifting the entire hood and fed normally. Once the food, cover good and ready.
2. previous
The development of the labyrinth is a delicate process, affects 100% of the labyrinthine health (especially in the Bettas in the way of keeping them in captivity), its role as a pillar in the body of these species with poor development of the labyrinth the consequences will be shared between different vital organs of the fish, a fact evidenced by the significant growth retardation, coming to be cases of dwarfism (due to health problems, not by genetic defects).
We are obliged to consider the dramatic difference between the "classic growth retardation (usually caused by poor nutrition, poor water quality, little exercise and / or low temperature) and growth retardation caused by problems in the maze.
For starters, the first (classic growth retardation) is recoverable in 90% of cases, while growth retardation due to complications in the maze is irretrievable past 35-45 days of life.
Secondly, the delay "classic" is solved by inverting the magnitude of the errors in time to act (good food, abundant and frequent, good quality water temperatures between 27 and 28 º C and regular exercise), in the case of delay not to complete the development of the labyrinth have a limited time, the more more difficult recovery and more possible the occurrence of sequelae or irreversible damage.
Finally, note that the mortality risk of stunting (classic) is very low, around 5% or less, no clutch, the mortality risk for not developing the labyrinth is a death sentence for 100% of those affected do not recover in time.
3. Step by step
Then I will list step by step how to prepare the development of the labyrinth of my Bettas:
1) At 14 days old, approximately the time comes facilitate the development of the labyrinth. The first step, providing fresh water, for this, soil use one of these 2 alternatives, to do it safely:
a) Prepare 1 aquarium with fresh water, the water under the same conditions as the fry aquarium (temperature, ph and gh (without chlorine)). Once we have prepared a whole set moved to the aquarium again, using a mesh or network.
b) Prepare 1 bucket with water under the same conditions as the Aquarium of the fry, move the start to the bucket and proceed to clean the tank of the fingerlings (total water change and clean thoroughly) once we have the aquarium of the fry are ready, make sure that water conditions are equal to the bucket, then move back to the start to the aquarium.
2) Ensuring good water quality, while developing the maze floor put some cuttings of pothos and Ricci, and at least a dozen snails Planorbis and hundreds of Daphnia. So, I maintain a good water quality, provide food possible and keep the clean background of solid waste (that if they continue rotting in the acuraio pollute more water). Daphnia have a dual function, filtering and food-generating potential.
3) To facilitate the creation of an ideal environment, water temperatures climb to 30 º C.
4) I put the lid of the aquarium, usually the use of cork to enhance the interior of the tank insulation from the external environment.
5) Finally isolate the environment within the aquarium of the external environment, cotton cloths placed over the top, turning the surplus into the tank (between the top and the top edge of the aquarium glass) and in this way, we avoid the loss of heat and humidity, but let them renew the air.
6) If needed, we can use a piece of tape or insulation, to seal one side of the tank (usually the front, as the party will move to give them eating), avoid sealing around the aquarium or more than 2 sides with tape, it does not allow the passage of air and thus prevents air exchange in the aquarium.
7) The acid test is to see the drops of moisture on the glass of the aquarium, the part that emerges above the water, that is the indication that the environment is right for the development of the labyrinth.
8) When feeding, fears out, lift the front a bit, introduce the food and close, making sure it is tightly closed to avoid losing environment created. LIFTING THE LID ON ONE SIDE DURING THE TIME OF FEEDING FRY (without removing the lid completely, JUST A LITTLE LIFT FROM THE FRONT) does not create havoc on the SET CREATED OR BREAK THE ENVIRONMENT, EXERCISE ONLY A SLIGHT DROP IN TEMPERATURE (tenths of a degree per minute).
9) At the 37-45 days of life, we proceed to undo the environment created for this act step by step with caution.
10) Turn the heater and remove.
11) Remove the towels and tape the lid of the aquarium.
12) few hours later, roll a little cover and leave a gap of several inches wide, we can lift the lid on the one hand a few inches instead of shoot. The idea is to facilitate the homogenization of the internal environment of the aquarium to the exterior.
13) The next day we can proceed to transfer them to larger tanks, making screens or as required, depending on the interests of each.
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